New Summit Plan

The Chinese seem to move. Yesterday, the leader of the rope fixing team, with some other apparently important people, visited our tent. Namgya and Nurbu discussed the weather forecasts with them and a low wind window is expected as of the 18th. The Chinese have gone to ABC yesterday.

Our current plan is as follows: today we climb to ABC, tomorrow (17/5) we make final preparations. The 18th we climb to North Col (7.1 km) and sleep there, next day we climb to Camp 2 (7.8 km) and sleep there. The 20th we climb to High Camp (8.3 km) take a rest and if the weather is OK will start a summit attempt late in the evening. If that all works out we would reach the top at sunrise the 21st. The Indian weather forecast have reported the first pre-monsoon cyclones in the indian Ocean. The monsoon is expected to start 21 May. It takes about 3 days before it hits Everest and once that happens, the season is over.