Manaslu 2021 – Approach

With 8163 m Manaslu is the 8th highest mountain in the world. Manaslu is located in the Mansiri Himal region of the Nepalese Himalayas. The name ‘Manaslu’ is based on the Sanskrit ‘manasa’ which means “spirit” or  “soul”, so Manaslu means ‘mountain of the soul’. The Tibetans call the mountain Kutang.

Gyalzen Norbu and Toshio Imanishi were the first men to climb Manaslu in 1956, as members of a Japanese expedition organised by the Japanese Alpine Club.

Reinhold Messner made the 4th ascent to Manaslu in 1972 as a member of a Tyrolean expedition that climbed from the Marsyangdi valley.

We intend to climb the classic north-east face of Manaslu via four camps. This route is pretty direct with some steep sections through the serac fields between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and a technically more demanding part on the ice cliffs just underneath Camp 4. From High Camp a snowy grate leads to the false summit via a steep slope after which the true summit (~150 m higher) can be reached via an exposed ridge.

The detailed itinerary can be found here.

Route and camps on Manaslu